Q. Why choose a Holland Lop? A. Holland Lops are the smallest of the lop breeds and are one of the most popular breeds of rabbits in the United States. They make excellent pets because of their wonderful personalities and easiness to handle. They also make excellent show rabbits for children, and they come in more colors than almost any other breed. They are easily litterbox trained and full of personality that will surely bring lots of joy to your life and family.
Q. Are your rabbits Pedigreed? A. Yes, all of my rabbits are purebred and pedigreed going back at least three generations, though pet quality rabbits come with a birth certificate instead as they should not be breed and do not have breeding rights.
Q. Can I come pick out/meet the rabbits before I choose one? A. Unfortunately, not. I get asked this a lot, and I understand where you are coming from, but for the safety and health of my rabbits it's just not something I'm willing to risk. I do often prefer rabbit pickups at my home due to my busy schedule, but I never allow anyone into my rabbitry to see the and meet the rabbits and this is simply because I frequently have pregnant or nursing moms and do not want any added stress on them or potentially risk the lives of their babies. Also, biosecurity is very important, and I have a lot invested in my herd and cannot risk any exposure to a virus or illness that could potentially be brought in and wipe out my whole herd.
Q. How big will they get? A. When full grown, holland lops generally stay between 2.5 - 4 pounds. (Most are around 3lb)
Q. How easy is it to litterbox train? A. Rabbits are very intelligent and clean animals that often times pick up on litterbox training very quickly. It is easiest to start them on this as babies, but sometimes it can take until a rabbit is spayed or neutered for them to fully have it down.
Q. Do your rabbits come litterbox trained? A. Some, but not all. I try to start all of the ones I know will be going to pet homes on litterbox training, and as babies they pick up on it very quickly, but it does take a period of time for them to adjust to their new set up at your home. Most show bunnies though are not litterbox trained, though that doesn't mean they can't be, it just might take a little more time if that's the route you decide to go.
Q. Does my bunny need a friend? A. Generally speaking, no. Rabbits are naturally territorial animals and I do not recommend keeping any two together that are not spayed or neutered first. Also, rabbits can reproduce very quickly and from a young age, (as young as about 12-14 weeks old) and do not usually like another rabbit in their space and will bully or attack it. There are some rare exceptions, such as with littermates, or a mom and baby, but it's not usually something that will last forever. It is never a good idea to try bonding two rabbits without them being spayed and neutered first.
Q. How much do your rabbits cost? A. My pricing on rabbits varies and depends based on the quality of the animal. Show quality, and brood quality rabbits are generally $175 and up. Pet quality, fuzzies & VM (vienna marked) rabbits going as pets are generally $100 and up. I do occasionally have a retiring adult that will be cheaper as well, but I pride myself on breeding for a purpose and that is to better the breed with each generation. All of my rabbit pairings are carefully selected and chosen for a reason, and this is reflected in the price. You are getting the carefully selected genetics and temperaments that not only me, but the others before me have tried hard for years to achieve. Also, every bit of money I make from the rabbits goes right back to them weather it's towards the cost of feed, supplies, cages, toys, covering show costs and transportation, vet care, and much more.
Q. Do bucks or does make better pets? A. There are pros and cons to both, but there is no correct answer as no two rabbits are alike and each have their own personality with things they like and dislike. Temperament is mostly genetic as well as how properly they are handled and socialized at a young age. I strongly breed for good type and great temperaments in my rabbits and do not keep around a mean rabbit. Some bucks can spray, and some does may become sassier once they reach sexual maturity, but this is not necessarily true for everyone.
Q. What should I feed my rabbit? A. Though you may read a lot of foods that are safe for rabbits, nothing is better for them than hay, pellets, and water and this is all that I recommend feeding. Holland Lops are a very small and fragile breed that commonly can get GI stasis, bloat, as well as other digestive issues that are often times fatal. Greens, fruits, and veggies are all not recommended as a part of their diet until they are at least 6 months of age for these reasons and if you must, do so very sparingly after that never as a daily thing. I recommend feeding a high-quality pellet not those from local pet stores with colorful treats mixed in, allow them to have access to unlimited grass hay, either timothy or orchard grass (no alfalfa) and instead you can use some supplements listed below as needed as a healthy alternative. The brand of pellets I feed is Purina Complete. It is good for babies, all through adulthood so there is no need to switch as they get older. I always provide a small bag with each rabbit when they go home to either help them transition, if you decide you want to switch to a different brand, or to get you by until you can get some more.
Q. What are some good treats or supplements to give my rabbit? A. These are some healthy alternatives that I recommend instead of the sugary, unhealthy pet store treats or fruits and veggies. -Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS): These are great to add about 4-5 to your rabbit's food daily. These are packed with essential nutrients like protein, fiber, and healthy fats to help improve their coat condition, add a lot of shine, aid in digestion, and provide your rabbit with energy, but be careful not over feed. Too much can cause them to become overweight or even bring on a molt. - Apple Cider Vinegar: This is a great thing to add to you rabbits water on a regular basis if properly diluted for several reasons; is packed with vitamins, minerals, good bacteria that helps to prevent urinary tract problems. It also boosts fertility, increases milk production, aids in nutrient absorption and overall GI health. Rabbits like the taste of it, and will drink more water and become more hydrated. It also hides the taste of foreign water if traveling to shows, repels fleas, reduces urine odor, keeps their fur softer and shinier, helps to regulate PH, and aids in curing common colds, weepy eye, mastitis, and skin infections. - Whole Oats: Oats are high in fiber and a good source of vitamins and minerals. This is great to keep the gut healthy, aid in digestion, and helps to reduce diarrhea. This is especially great to feed a little bit when babies are young and around weaning time. I feed a little pinch with my rabbits pellets and they love this! - Dried papaya or pineapple: This is great to feed for help breaking down fur and wool and eliminating hair blockage. Rabbits cannot vomit like cats or dogs can and this will help them to get it to pass. I recommend feeding a couple pieces weekly as a preventative, especially with fuzzies and during times they are molting since rabbits are constantly grooming themselves. - Immunize (supplement): Helps to boost the rabbit's immune system. Great during times you are showing your rabbits, during fair time, or if you know they will be traveling. Also helps to increase their appetite. - Cirqulate (Supplement): I often will feed this to my show rabbits and grow outs to help keep them in top show condition. Helps to increase blood flow, circulation, and distribution of nutrients.
Q. I see you use rabbit transports, how does that work? A. I do frequently work with a few rabbit transporters, and this is a great option if you would like to purchase one of my rabbits and live out of state. This saves you the time of driving or flying to make the trip yourself. Each transporters prices are different, but they often times cost between $75-$100. They do not offer drop off directly to your house, but at a safe, public place at a spot that is convenient for the both of you. While using a rabbit transporter can be stressful for the animal there are a few that I favor using more than others and my first choice is always Hippity Hop Express, however KD Farms Transport and Up North Pet Taxi frequently come close to me and are great options as well. I can help direct you to get this set up, but it is your responsibility to fill out the form and pay the cost to secure a spot on the run. They all have Facebook pages and post upcoming routes on there.
Q. Will my rabbit be ok if it's outside? A. I recommend that any rabbit purchased from me be housed indoors since this is what they are used to, and it is the safest option for them. Aside from GI Stasis, the other most common cause of death is heat stroke. My rabbits are used to it being 68 degrees all year round and are not used to the extreme heat and cold. They also run the risk of predators getting them outside as well as other viruses or parasites they may pick up.
Q. Is it better if I spay/neuter my rabbit? A. Unless it is a medical necessity, or you plan on getting multiple rabbits and housing them together my answer is no. Rabbits are very sensitive to anesthesia (especially holland lops due to their size) and there are not enough rabbit savvy vets that often times even the simplest of surgeries can kill them. There is a lot of irresponsible breeding out there so people try to encourage them to get fixed to decrease the number of babies being born, but if they will be your only rabbit there is really no reason to get them spayed/neutered. Besides, if you plan on showing your rabbit that is a disqualification and they cannot be shown if not intact.
Q. Do rabbits smell? A. If housed in a proper setup with a cage/litterbox that is frequently cleaned there should be little to no odor. I recommend cleaning litterboxes daily or at the very least every other day and do a good deep clean of their space weekly. With this being done there should be little to no smell.
Commonly used rabbit & show terminology: VM: Vienna Marked VC: Vienna Carrier BEW: Blue Eyed White REW: Ruby Eyed White JR: Junior (younger than 6 months old) SR: Senior (a rabbit that is older than 6 months old) Dam: The mother Sire: The father Kit: A baby rabbit Pedigree: A document detailing a particular rabbit and its parents, grandparents, and great grandparents. This includes each rabbit's name, as well as their tattoo, variety, any awards or legs won, registration number, Grand Champion number, weight, and date of birth. Leg: This is an award a rabbit wins for winning its class or higher at an ARBA show. There must be at least 5 animals shown by at least 3 different exhibiters. Grand Champion: A rabbit that has won at least 3 legs, at least 1 of them has to be as a senior, and under at least 2 different judges. They must also be registered with the ARBA and the necessary paperwork and payment submitted to have the title as a Grand Champion. This rabbit will then have Grand Champion or GC before their name. Standard of Perfection - A book published by ARBA that details how an ideal rabbit or cavy of each recognized breed should look. Each breed has a description of the ideal animal of each breed, as well as faults and disqualifications. It also has a glossary, pictures of each breed, a list of general disqualifications, and pictures of deformities. If you are wanting to raise and show or breed rabbits you should have the most up to date copy of this book and work to find and raise rabbits as closely as possible to the breed standard. BOB - Best Of Breed. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best show quality of all the rabbits of its breed at the show. There is a BOB of every rabbit breed at the show. The BOB is eligible to compete for Best In Show. BOSB - Best Opposite Sex of Breed. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best show quality of all the rabbits of the opposite gender of the BOB winner. If the BOB winner is a buck, BOSB is a doe, and vice versa. BOV - Best Of Variety. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best show quality of all the rabbits of its variety (color). All the BOV and the BOSV winners compete against each other for BOB and BOSB. BOSV - Best Opposite Sex of Variety. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best show quality of all the rabbits of its variety (color) that are the opposite gender of the BOV winner. All of the BOV and BOSV winners compete against each other for BOB and BOSB. BIS - Best In Show. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best show quality of all the rabbits in the show. All the Best of Breed winners of each breed are eligible to compete for Best In Show. Can be a buck or doe of any breed and color. RIS - Reserve In Show. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the second-best show quality of all the rabbits in the show. Can be a buck or doe of any breed and color. BISS - Best In Specialty Show. A specialty show is a show specifically for one breed or a group of breeds, such as lops or angoras. The rabbit that is declared by a judge to be the best rabbit there is the BISS winner. Can be a buck or doe of any color Broken - A rabbit that is white with solid patches. Solid - A rabbit that is not a Broken color. SJB - Solid Junior Buck SJD - Solid Junior Doe BJB - Broken Junior Buck BJD - Broken Junior Doe SSB - Solid Senior Buck SSD - Solid Senior Doe BSB - Broken Senior Buck BSD - Broken Senior Doe